_ \| | __/ \ _|-_) _` | | /(_-< _| _| _|_|\___|\__,_|_\_\___/ | _` | \ _` | \__,_|_| _|\__,_| __| | (_ | -_) -_) | /(_-< \___|\___|\___|_\_\___/ http://www.phreaksandgeeks.com Tools of the trade by Captain B For the entry-level phone phreak, getting to know the names and purposes of some of the telecom tools and equipment can be a good first step toward becoming a better phreaker. This file Isn't intended to be an all-inclusive guide to every last tool and piece of equipment. It's meant to be more of a primer of sorts. And, mainly the more common tools/equipment will be mentioned here. *Tool or equipment name/Purpose* Wire cutters/strippers- If you want to install your own inside phone wire, you'll nned wire cutters and wire strippers, or a combination wire cutter/stripper tool. After cutting phone wire to desired length with a wire cutter tool, use a wire stripper to remove the outer insulation jacket. Next, use the wire stripper to remove about an inch of insulation off of the small colored wires. Finally, attach the stripped ends of those wire leads to the screw terminals inside a phone jack, TNI (Telephone Network Interface) box, or 42A block. Wrap the stripped ends of the wires tightly clockwise around a screw. Patience and a steady hand are key to doing good phone wire installations. Check the instructions that came with the tool if you need further instruction. A variety of wire cutters and strippers are sold at Radio Shack. Possibly other stores like Home Depot may carry them, too. Just make sure the wire strippers can strip 24-26 wire gauge. (Which is represented as 24AWG or 26AWG). Modular crimp tool- With this tool, you'll be able to repair the telephone line cord that connects between your phone and phone jack, if the phone line cord has become partially or completely detached from the modular plug connector on either end of the cord somehow. This tool basically squeezes (crimps) a new modular plug onto the end of a phone line cord. You can also create your own custom length phone line cords this way. Certain model modular crimp tools (like the RCA brand crimp tool, sold at Home Depot) allow the same to be done with phone handset cords as well. Also, certain model modular crimp tools allow RJ45 (4-line) modular plug connectors to be crimped onto RJ45 phone line cords. (RJ45 Plugs/jacks are a bit wider than 1, 2, or 3 line modular plugs/jacks). 1 or 2 line phones can only be plugged into a 4 line jack via an 8 conductor (RJ45) plug-to-dual 4 conductor (RJ14) jacks. 1 of the jacks is lines 1/2, the other is for lines 3/4. Check with the instructions that came with the modular crimp tool to learn how to use it. Modular crimp tools can be bought at Radio Shack, Home Depot, and many other places where phones and phone accessories are sold. Modular line cord plugs- Without some modular line cord plugs to crimp onto line cords, that shiny new modular crimp tool you bought Isn't too useful. So far, I've only seen packs of RJ14 (2 line), RJ25 (3 line), and RJ45 (4 line) modular plugs. They don't seem to come in RJ11 (1 line) modular plugs. But, since all 1-3 line jacks/plugs are compatible, it really doesn't matter. (They'll fit perfectly). If, however, you're using 4 line phones/phone jacks/line cords, you'll need to buy a pack of RJ45 modular plugs. And, make sure to buy a modular crimp tool that crimps 4 line plugs onto 4 line phone cords. Radio Shack sells packs of RJ45 modular plugs, and 1 of the 2 types of modular crimp tools they sell crimps RJ45 plugs. (Unfortunately, It's the more expensive of the 2 modular crimp tools also). And, even though they don't intend it, these line cord plugs could even be attached to the end of many types of inside phone station wire. Packs of 2 line modular plugs are the most commonly found at most stores selling phones/phone accessories. RJ25 (3 line) plugs/phone jacks/line cords ssem to be more obscure. I've only seen those sold at Radio Shack so far. 4 line RJ45 modular plugs/phone jacks/line cords may also be somewhat harder to find at places other than Radio Shack. Modular handset cord plugs- The installation proceedure for these are the same as for modular line cords. Except, these are for crimping onto phone handset cords instead. (The handset cord is the cord that connects between the phone handset, and the rest of the phone). Unless you take a pretty close look, it can be fairly easy to mistake these for being 2 line (RJ14) modular line cord plugs. In fact, handset cord plugs are only slightly more narrow than 1, 2, or 3 line modular line cord plugs. But, although it wouldn't be manufacturer recommended, I think it may be possible to crimp a handset cord plug onto a phone line cord. Certainly, I know that 1 and 2 line phone line cords will fit into a handset cord plug for crimping. And, from experience, I know that phone line cord plugs can be crimped onto handset cords. A handset cord can be turned into a phone line cord in this manner. So far, I've only seen packs of handset cord plugs sold under the RCA brand name at Home Depot. And, the RCA brand modular crimp tool sold at Home Depot crimps handset cord plugs, according to the back of the package for the pack of handset cord plugs. You could also check with other stores selling phones/phone accessories for availibility/prices. Insulation piercing modular line cord plug- Don't have a modular crimp tool handy? No problem! Using the concept of insulation piercing, (Sometimes called insulation displacement) an insulation piercing phone line cord plug attaches to a modular phone line cord without crimping. First, seperate the insulation piercing line cord plug into It's upper/lower halves by loosening the screw contained in the top half. Then, simply strip enough of the outer jacket insulation off a 1 or 2 line (RJ11 or RJ14) phone line cord. Then, postion the 2 or 4 little wires (usually colored red and green, or red, green, yellow, and black) into the respectively marked "R", "G", "Y", and "B" wire channel tracks on the lower half of the insulation piercing line cord plug. No stripping of the insulation off of the little colored wires is to be done. Just re-attach the top half of the insulation piercing line cord plug by tightening down the screw on the top half of the plug, making sure to hold the line cord stationary (so the little wires from the line cord don't accidently slide out of the wire channel tracks inside) and, you're done. But, it can actually be more difficult working with these insulation piercing plugs than standard crimp-on plugs. Besides, you only get 1 of these insulation piercing line cord plugs for about the same or more than the cost of a pack of 2 line (RJ14) crimp-on line cord plugs. However, these insulation piercing plugs fit much better onto Category 3 "patch" cords than the crimp-on type plug connectors. Even though they don't intend it, these insulation piercing plugs could even be attached to the end of 1 or 2 line inside phone station wire. Radio Shack also sells insulation piercing modular line cord plugs for installation on RJ45 4 line (8 conductor) line cords. (Which includes Category 5 and Category 5E line cords). If you need further instruction, check with the instructions on the package. Insulation piercing line cord plugs can be bought at Radio Shack, Home Depot, and possibly other stores that sell phones/phone accessories. Insulation piercing handset cord plugs- Much the same as the insulation piercing line cord plugs, except for installation on modular handset cords instead. The installation proceedure is the same as it was for the insulation piercing line cord plug. But, once again, a pack of crimp-on modular handset cord plug connectors can be cheaper, and quicker/easier to install. If you need to, you can check the package for installation instructions. You can find the insulation piercing handset plug at Radio Shack, Home Depot, and possibly other places carrying phones/phone accessories. Alligator clips- To be able to connect a phone to the screw terminals inside phone jacks, TNI (Telephone Network Interface) boxes, 42A blocks, telco cans, and some other telecom termination (junction) boxes, you'll need to connect up using alligator clip connectors. Much like their larger sized counterpart on the ends of a car battery jumper cable, these alligator clips are intended to clamp onto the aforementioned connection points, and make an electrical connection. To do this, simply squeeze open the jaws of the alligator clip, attach to a screw terminal point, and release the jaws of the alligator clip, thereby allowing the gator clip to clamp down onto the screw terminal. An alligator clip could also be used to clamp onto another alligator clip, or the stripped end of a phone wire lead for the purpose of making an electrical connection. And, since all phone lines are in pairs of 2 wires each, you'll need at least 2 alligator clips. For reference sake, the pair of wires for line 1 is usually colored red and green. (Red is the "ring", or negative. Green is called the "tip", and is the positive). Line 2 is usually colored yellow and black. Yellow is the ring wire lead, and black is the tip. But, bear in mind that this wire color scheme is only for standard phone wire found inside phone jacks, TNI boxes, and 42A blocks. Category 3, Category 5, and Category 5E (Enhanced Cat 5) has wire color schemes that are different from standard grade phone wire. Also, the phone wire the telco (the phone company) uses for all their outside phone wire doesn't use the red/green, yellow/black color scheme either. Alligator clips come attached to the cord on a lineman's handset phone. The type of alligator clips on lineman's handsets are even able to pierce through outer insulation with pins built into those gator clips. Those gator clips are often ABN (Angled Bed of Nails). The type bought from Radio Shack don't have these built-in insulation piercing pins. Now, with modular phone line cords, they need to be modified by adding alligator clip connectors to them. There are 2 types of alligator clips: 1 type has a small screw terminal for attaching the stripped end of a wire. With the other type, you have to solder a stripped wire end onto it. I don't think I recommend using the solder-type alligator clips if your soldering skills are somewhat poor. Besides, screw-type gator clips clips can be a bit quicker/easier to work with. But, whether the alligator clips are the solder or screw terminal type, you should get alligator clips that are fully insulated. (Alligator clips that are fully insulated come with their own outer insulation sleeves over the alligator clips themselves). If you decide to use screw type gator clips, you can buy a 2 line RJ14 modular plug-to-4 spade lugs phone line cord. Sold at Radio Shack, these type of phone line cords come in 3 lengths: 1Ft, 12Ft, and 25Ft. I'm not sure about the availibility of these modular plug-to-spade lugs modular phone line cords at places other than Radio Shack. I recommend buying the 1Ft. cord, but any length is fine. Besides, if you own a modular crimp tool and have some modular line cord plugs, you can shorten any cord as you so desire. Remember, only crimp on a new line cord plug on the same end of a plug-to-spade lugs line cord where the existing modular plug already is. An insulation piercing line cord plug could also be used instead of the crimp on type line cord plugs. Now, unless you plan on using a 2 line phone, and connecting it up to a 2 line phone jack with phone service on both line 1 and 2, then you can cut off the yellow and black wires on the plug-to-spade lugs cord. Try to cut off the wires as close to where they come out of the grey outer insulation jacket as possible. I think the Radio Shack nippy cutters are perfect for this job. Slide the outer insulation sleeve off of one of the alligator clips. (This is a bit easier if you have the aligator clip clamp down on some fairly thick object. That way It'll help keep the alligator clip open, and make it easier to slide the insulation sleeve off). Even so, don't expect theese insulation sleeves to slide off super quick and easy. Just take your time, and gradually slide it off. And, try to keep the alligator clip from sliding off whatever you have it clamped onto. I prefer to use my bed's comforter blanket. Being made of cloth, the gator clip won't slide off as easy while working with it. After you've slid the insulation sleeve off one of the alligator clips, use a Phillips or flathead screwdriver to loosen the small screw on one of the alligator clips. Now, carefully and gradually slide the narrower back end of the insulation sleeve completely over the spade lug end of one of the wires, and on through the insulation sleeve until the spade lug has come out the front end of the insulation sleeve. Attach the spade lug underneath the screw head on the gator clip, and tighten the screw down. Make sure to hold the spade lug in place between your thumb and finger while tightening the screw, so the spade lug doesn't move with the screw as you're tightening it. Then, once again, have the jaws of the alligator clip clamp down on some thick object to fully open up the gator clip. Gradually and carefully slide the insulation sleeve over the back end of the alligator clip, but leave some of the front end of the alligator clip sticking out of the front end of the insulation sleeve. Now, repeat this process to connect the spade lug end of the other wire to the other alligator clip. Now, by plugging in the modular plug end this modified line cord with alligator clips into a phone directly, or into the jack end of a line cord with a built in jack (known as an extension line cord), or into an in-line coupler (Female-to-female jack) attached to a line cord, then you can use the alligator clips to connect that phone to bare screw terminals found inside TNI (Telephone Network Interface) boxes, telco cans, and other junction points where phone wire is terminated (connected) to screw terminals. Remember, you only need to use alligator clips when connecting to screw terminals. Stick to using modular line cords when you want to connect a phone to a phone jack. Including the "test jack" found inside TNI boxes. Alligator clips can be bought at Radio Shack, and probably at other smaller chain electronic stores, such as Active Electronics. Phone splice and phone tap connectors- These phone connectors are quick and easy to install, and even weatherproof. So, if you want to install them outdoors, you can. But, once installed, the connection with these is intended to be a permanent one. Just bear that in mind before installing them. The only tool you'll need to install these connectors is pliers. I used needle-nose pliers myself to install these, but I think most types of pliers will do the job. The phone splice and tap connectors come in 2 colors/varities: Red is the splice connectors for splicing 2 ends of a given phone wire together. There are 3 small holes on the one side of the splice connector. Up to 2 wires can fit in each hole (6 total) and all wires must be of the same color. (Although, it doesn't say in the instructions that come with the splice connectors whether you're supposed to put 2 wires together in one hole. But, even so, I found that when I put 2 wires in one hole, it worked fine for me). The green phone tap connectors are used to tap into a given existing phone wire, just as the name implies. To tap into both the negative (ring) and positive (tip) wires on a phone line requires 2 of these tap connectors. Since both the splice and tap connectors are sold in packs of 4 at Radio Shack, this is no problem. With phone tap connectors, the little "run" wire, is placed into the run channel on the tap connector. (The run channel is the spot with holes on opposite sides of each other on the tap connector for running the small "run" wire through. (That's the wire that'll be tapped into). A 2nd wire of the same color is placed into the other hole. Tap and splice connectors can be used to splice or tap the inside phone station wire running to/between phone jacks in your home, the phone wiring outdoors inside TNI (Telephone Network Interface) boxes, telco cans, and some other phone wire junction boxes. And also, the phone wire inside modular phone line and phone handset cords. And remember, the insulation on the little wires should not be stripped off, regardless on whether you're installing either the phone splice or phone tap connectors. And also, regardless of which of the different types phone wire previously mentioned you use it on. The wires shouldn't be twisted after the connectors have been installed. There's A 3rd type of splice connector sold that's yellow in color, and meant for wire gauges in the range of 22-26AWG (As compred to 19-26AWG for the other 2 types of connectors). Since phone wire is in the 24-26AWG wire gauge range, these can also be used on all the previously mentioned phone wire. But, these yellow color splice connectors can't be found in Radio Shack stores. However, Home Depot sells packs of them, as well as the other 2 types. Telephone spade lugs- Besides for being able to buy phone line cords with spade lug connectors attached to the wire ends, you can also add spade lug connectors to the ends of phone wire for line cords as well as phone station wire (used to connect to/between phone jacks inside your home) and the wires inside a phone handset cord. Radio Shack sells packs of telephone spade lugs. To attach them to the wire leads (wire ends) of a phone line cord, or other phone wire, requires a crimp tool. Not to be confused with the modular crimp tool, the one used for this purpose crimps spade lugs or other connectors onto wire leads. Radio Shack sells a telephone connector crimp tool (Cat no. 64-410), yet I found it not to be too good for the job. The reason being is that the jaws of that crimp tool are pretty square-shaped. Since most wires in electronics are usually round, and since the end of most connectors that get crimped onto wire cables are more or less rounded in shape, and are intended to be crimped on around a wire lead, the more square shaped jaws of this phone connector crimp tool didn't really work right for the purpose. I found that the more rounder crimp jaws built into the 4 in 1 needle nose pliers/crimp tool/wire stripper/wire cutter from Radio Shack (Cat no. 64-1847) seemed to be more better suited. Even if you don't use that tool to crimp with, you should try use one that can crimp connectors in the 24-26AWG wire guage, or at least as close as possible. I don't think I recommend using one that crimps connectors less than 22AWG. But, bear in mind that I mean the particular part on that given connector crimp tool. Since many crimp tools usually have various different size jaws on different parts of the same crimp tool. For example, one part on a given crimp connector tool may crimp connectors in the 10-16AWG wire gauge range, and another spot on the same crimp tool may crimp connectors in the 18-22AWG wire gauge range. Crimping spade lugs or any type connectors onto any type wire ends for that matter, requires some patience and care to get it right. Slide one of the little phone wires (Typically red, yellow, green or black in color) bewteen the little insulation piercing pins on the spade lug connector. Try to hold the spade lug and the wire in place with one hand, and with the other hand place the crimp tool's jaws over the pins on the spade lug connector. Now, squeeze the crimp tool handles together fairly slow, but surely. If you you got it right, the wire will now be underneath the pins on the phone spade lug connector. It doesn't have to be absolutely perfect for the spade lug to be able to make the proper electrical connection when used. If you didn't get it right, don't worry. It can be fairly tricky work when crimping these connectors. But, as long as you have more spade lugs and wire, you can always try again. Although Radio Shack is the only place I know of for certain that carries these spade lug connectors, you could try a smaller independent chain electronic store. Like Active Electronics, for example. Lineman's handset- Phone company lineman test lines by connecting up to a phone line with a lineman's handset. There's a few models of Harris brand lineman's handset's availible at Home Depot, and you can also find more on the following websites: Harris' website at http://www.networksupport.harris.com/products/tools/POTS.asp -And on Jensen Tools' website at: http://www.jensentools.com/product/category.asp?parent_id=425 - Jensen Tools contact info is as follows: Jensen Tools - 7815 South 46th St. Phoenix, AZ 85044-5399 Phone-(602)453-3169 or (800)426-1194 Fax-(602)438-1690 or (800)366-9662. Another alternative is to type the words "Lineman handset" in a Google search. Although useful, there's not much in the way of features exclusive to lineman's handsets that you can't get in many standard phones. The alligator clips with their ABN (Angle Bed of Nails) insulation piercing pins on them can be one useful thing. And, the ability to do a line monitor can be another pretty good one. (Monitoring the line means listening to the line when the phone is hung p, or "on hook"). For example, by line monitoring, you can hear caller ID transmissions between the CO (Central Office) and CPE (Customer Premise Equipmet. In other words, the customer's caller ID equipment) that come in between the first and 2nd rings on an incoming call. But, besides for lineman's handsets, there's 2 other ways to go on this. The first, and most simple, is to buy what I call a one piece phone. (I call it "one piece", because there's no seperate handset and base unit). It's all in one nice, compact design. Which is definitely helpful when field phreaking. (Phreaking outdoors somewhere). I always try to take space and ease of portability into consideration for much of the telecom equipment I take with me when field phreaking. Now, the things is, there just Isn't many one piece phones on the market. There's the Apollo flip phone (Sold in your choice of 3 colors) which lat I checked was still being sold at Radio Shack. The Super Mini Flip phone from Radio Shack was unbelievably small and lightweight, and even came with a headphone jack. Sadly, these seem to have been discontinued now. But, if you're lucky, maybe a Radio Shack somewhere near you may still have one. Umm... I think the price was down to about 5 or 6 bucks last I seen. And, there's 2 models of ConAir phones made that are one piece phones. The SW114 sold at K Mart (if they're still in business in your area by the time you read this) and the SW112 flip phone also sold at K mart. I suspect that they may have discontinued the SW112 model, as I now no longer see it in my local K mart store anymore. Anyway, the 2nd method of a placebo for a lineman's handset involves modifying a modular phone handset cord to allow a standard home phone that has a keypad built into the handset to be connected to phone jacks and screw terminals. Refer to my Conversion Box file at the following web page to learn how to build this: http://www.hackerhost.com/lph/conversion.txt There may also be other web sites where it can be found, too. Go to http://www.google.com and type in "Captain B text" in the search to locate all sites currently hosting my files. The Wireless Beige Box file of mine might also be of interest to you, if you'd like to use a cordless phone in place of a lineman's handset to beige box with. Check the following web page: http://www.hackerhost.com/lph/wireless.txt - Or, use the Google search method mentioned above to find that file of mine if you're interested. For all my files on hackerhost.com/lph, visit http://www.hackerhost.com/lph and click on "text philes". Can wrench- This is the tool that's used by phone company linemen to open TNI (Telephone Network Inteface) boxes and Telco cans. It's nothing more than a double sided, hex nutdriver. One side is for TNI boxes using a 3/8" hex nut, and the other for Telco cans using a 7/16" nut. These can wrenches are pretty hard to come by. I think I remember phreakstore.com carrying these, as well as crystals to mod tone dialers into red boxes with, and other good stuff, but phreakstore no longer exisits. But, you can also find can wrenches on Jensen Tools website at http://www.jensentools.com/product/category.asp?parent_id=405 - The combination can wrench is the better of the 2 on there, since there's also an optional security hex driver add-on for it to remove the bottom panel, and other parts off the enclosure on pay phones. Or, go to Google.com and type in the words "can wrench" for more. There's also another way to remove those hex nuts on TNI boxes and telco cans. Go to Home Depot and buy either a 1/4" drive ratchet, or spinner handle. Actually, I recommend getting both, since the extra torq (pressure) ability of the ratchet helps when using it with the 7/16" hex nut socket for use on telco cans. But, the spinner handle (which looks much like a screw driver) with It's long shaft, fits perfectly down into the TNI box's "Telco access only" slot which has the 3/8" nut. Another way to do it is use a 3/8" hex deep socket bit with a 1/4" drive ratchet to make it fit all the way down into the telco access only slot. With some newer model TNI boxes, the 3/8" nut is easier to get to, and doesn't require the long shaft of the spinner handle, or a deep 3/8" hex deep socket bit used with a ratchet. And, just to make mention, these are called hex sockets, and the nuts are called hex nuts because that's their shape. 6 equal sides, forming a hexagon shape. Anyway, in the case of telco cans, you may find ones that are padlocked. In which case, you're out of luck unless you have a bolt cutter to cut the padlock off. Which, I don't recommend doing anyway, since you DEFINITELY want to leave ALL phone company equipment the way you found it after you done with it. So certainly, make sure to close up all telco cans and TNI boxes when done. And, on a side note, even if you don't buy a 3/8 hex socket for your 1/4 drive ratchet or spinner handle, It's still possible to open up the customer access side of a TNI box with a standard phillips or flat head screw driver. Just as long as there's no padlock on the TNI box, you can do this. Phone line tester- If you want to test phone jacks and cords for correct polarity, continuity, (opens) which simply put means whether you have electrical voltage/current present or not on your phone line depending on whether there's a broken wire connection somewhere, or perhaps a short, or something like that, then you'll need to use a line tester. There's 2 types of these sold at Radio Shack. One simply is plugged into any phone jack in your home, or even into the test jack inside a TNI box. The other line tester tests phone jacks in your home, and also modular phone handset cords and phone line cords for the same possible faults. In fact, it even tests standard RG6 type 75 Ohm coaxial cables for faults, too. (This type of coaxial, or "co-ax" cable is commonly used by cable companies for running cable service over, and is also used to connect VCRs and other video equipment to TV sets). Now, the ability to check coax cables for problems is fine, by I bought that test in particular becuase of the ability to test all those phone related things I mentioned. It's more expensive to buy that full featured tester (I think it cost about $17 last I checked) but, considering you can do more with it, it can be worth it. Home Depot also sells a few line testers under the Ideal brand name. These testers connect up just like in-line couplers connected between 2 lengths of phone line cord. I point this out since the standard line tester from Radio Shack (for about $5) simply sonnects into a phone jack only, not on a line cord like this type. Also, since different line testers vary, some will have more LED lights than that light up to show you faults than others. For example, the standard line tester has seperate lights for lines 1 and 2 individually that will either light up green to indicate correct polarity, red for reverse (wrong) polarity, or it simply wont light at all if there's a short or open on that phone line. The more full-featured only tests line 1 on phone jacks. If you want to test line 2's wiring for problems, you'll need to use Radio Shack's 2 line, 3 way splitter. Simply plug the splitter into the phone jack, and run a line cord between the middle jack on the splitter to the tester. This also shows that different line testers don't always test the same number of lines. Ideal brand manufactures line testers in 2, 3, and 4 line testers. Remember, a 1, 2 or 3 line tester won't fit with the phone jacks/plugs of 4 line phone equipment. Nor will 4 line testers fit with 1, 2 or 3 line phone jacks/plugs. Also, some testers will have a LED light for shorts and opens, others may not. In which case, if no LED lights light up, there could be either a short or an open condition. In other words, depending on how full featured or not your tester is, you may still have to figure out whether there's a short or open on your phone line or phone cords. Tone generator and inductive line tracer probe- Of everything mentioned in this file, this is the one that would not be very likely to be used by your average Joe Phreaker. Now, although the tone generator and inductive tracer probe can be bought seperately at Home Depot, these 2 pieces of telecom equipment are meant to be used together. Phone linemen use these for locating a specific phone wire pair amongst many. This is particularly useful inside telco cans, and other telco junction box equipment. The tone generator is connected to a phone line either via a modular line cord and plug into a phone jack, or via alligator clips. Once connected and turned on, it puts out either a steady or pulsating beep tone. At some point further "downstream" on the same phone line, (like inside the nearest telco can for example) the inductive probe is touched to the insulation on a wire in the proper wire pair, and the signal is picked up and heard through the probe. Another method of doing this is to have something that produces a continuous source of sound connected up to a phone line, and connect up a lineman's handset or one piece phone with alligator clips somewhere downstream on that same phone line. Although the technique is essentially the same, the advantage of the inductive line tracer probe as compared to the other method is that you wont actually need to physically connect up any gator clips, or line cords to the line to hear the signal. Also, unlike the other method, I believe the tone generator can even been run over a dead, disconnected line. Using a tone generator and probe, or the other method I mentioned, you could locate your line in any phone company telco can or other type telecom junction box. Harris makes these tone generators and inductive probes. So, there may be more info somewhere on Harris' website at www.harris.com.